King Circulator Wood Stove Manual

I hate my Regency insert!! A regency insert came with this 2300sf place. I never had to deal with such a stupid stove, but maybe it isnt working right?? Sprint layout edit macros 2010 1. It HAS to have the blower on to feel any heat at all, unless you open the door, then there is lots of heat, but the box is so shallow and narrow that things just fall out of it all the time when logs burn up, so thats out (I didnt get a screen that fits it tho, just one in front for the sparks, but you arent supposed to run this thing with the door open). The high speed fan is burnt out. It takes over 1/2 hour (and says so in the manual!) for the thing to get hot enough to make the fan start.

Jan 18, 2010 - we have a king automatic circulator wood stove with model number 8800 - H we are trying to figure out what the specs are for the piping.

You can practically sit on it it stays so cool even when its been burning a while. What I want to know is - why make a wood stove that HAS to have a fan to work? Isnt one reason to have a woodstove is if the power goes out, so why make one that has to have a fan to work well? And on med heat, 10 ft from the stove you cant feel any heat, even with the fan on. I just got offered a King Circulator model 9901-B, but its so brown and ugly, but are they any good anymore?

I dont want a newer type with the catalytic converter as I would ruin it with colored paper the first week. Thanks for listening!!

If one has central air, then a nifty product to have is the 'Aircycler': which allows one to program the furnace fan to come on in variable timed cycles to even out the heat from the wood stove. Also, coupled with a MERV 10 or above furnace filter, it's great at keeping smoke and dust to a minimum.

Of course, if one has their stove in the basement, using the stair wells to move the air, all one needs is one of these 10 dollar misers mounted on the basement stairwell ceiling and set to low, in order to move the heat (never tried, nor needed to set it on high): Which is what I use when it gets below freezing to keep all 3 levels of my home at t-shirt temps. The nice thing about using a stairwell fan to slightly pressurize the main level, is that heated air more easily migrates to the top level via stairwells, while pushing colder air back down to the basement via return air ducts. And by turning the furnace fan on for a few minutes several times a day, the air stays much cleaner as well. Blessings in Yeshua.

If you don't want to listen to a fan, or need a fan, then don't buy an insert. I tore down a masonry chimney/fireplace/Lopi insert and replaced it with a silent freestanding stove that heats without a fan. Christopher hart books pdf. I tested out a floor fan blowing on the freestander with no improvement in performance.

There are two issues here. One is the room being hotter at the ceiling and cooler at the floor.

For this issue I use a ceiling fan on low which makes the whole room approximately the same temperature silently. I recommend this to all stove/insert users for their stove rooms. The other issue being discussed is using a fan to get more heat from the stove. The fan is not necessary unless you have an insert or a rare stove design that requires a fan. The way to tell is that the fan will be an optional accessory if it is unnecessary. Click to expand.I agree with you. In the house I have an Englander TR-18 and off to the side I have a 12' 3-speed fan.

I keep one of my TV's in that room and spend the winter evenings in there. Depending on how cold it gets in the rest of the house is how much I turn up the fan. On low and medium it is not noisy at all and moves a lot of warmer air out of that room. And I do have an outside air source hooked directly to the intake of the stove and I don't have cold air movement towards the stove.

I hate my Regency insert!! A regency insert came with this 2300sf place. I never had to deal with such a stupid stove, but maybe it isnt working right?? Sprint layout edit macros 2010 1. It HAS to have the blower on to feel any heat at all, unless you open the door, then there is lots of heat, but the box is so shallow and narrow that things just fall out of it all the time when logs burn up, so thats out (I didnt get a screen that fits it tho, just one in front for the sparks, but you arent supposed to run this thing with the door open). The high speed fan is burnt out. It takes over 1/2 hour (and says so in the manual!) for the thing to get hot enough to make the fan start.

Jan 18, 2010 - we have a king automatic circulator wood stove with model number 8800 - H we are trying to figure out what the specs are for the piping.

You can practically sit on it it stays so cool even when its been burning a while. What I want to know is - why make a wood stove that HAS to have a fan to work? Isnt one reason to have a woodstove is if the power goes out, so why make one that has to have a fan to work well? And on med heat, 10 ft from the stove you cant feel any heat, even with the fan on. I just got offered a King Circulator model 9901-B, but its so brown and ugly, but are they any good anymore?

I dont want a newer type with the catalytic converter as I would ruin it with colored paper the first week. Thanks for listening!!

If one has central air, then a nifty product to have is the 'Aircycler': which allows one to program the furnace fan to come on in variable timed cycles to even out the heat from the wood stove. Also, coupled with a MERV 10 or above furnace filter, it's great at keeping smoke and dust to a minimum.

Of course, if one has their stove in the basement, using the stair wells to move the air, all one needs is one of these 10 dollar misers mounted on the basement stairwell ceiling and set to low, in order to move the heat (never tried, nor needed to set it on high): Which is what I use when it gets below freezing to keep all 3 levels of my home at t-shirt temps. The nice thing about using a stairwell fan to slightly pressurize the main level, is that heated air more easily migrates to the top level via stairwells, while pushing colder air back down to the basement via return air ducts. And by turning the furnace fan on for a few minutes several times a day, the air stays much cleaner as well. Blessings in Yeshua.

If you don't want to listen to a fan, or need a fan, then don't buy an insert. I tore down a masonry chimney/fireplace/Lopi insert and replaced it with a silent freestanding stove that heats without a fan. Christopher hart books pdf. I tested out a floor fan blowing on the freestander with no improvement in performance.

There are two issues here. One is the room being hotter at the ceiling and cooler at the floor.

For this issue I use a ceiling fan on low which makes the whole room approximately the same temperature silently. I recommend this to all stove/insert users for their stove rooms. The other issue being discussed is using a fan to get more heat from the stove. The fan is not necessary unless you have an insert or a rare stove design that requires a fan. The way to tell is that the fan will be an optional accessory if it is unnecessary. Click to expand.I agree with you. In the house I have an Englander TR-18 and off to the side I have a 12' 3-speed fan.

I keep one of my TV's in that room and spend the winter evenings in there. Depending on how cold it gets in the rest of the house is how much I turn up the fan. On low and medium it is not noisy at all and moves a lot of warmer air out of that room. And I do have an outside air source hooked directly to the intake of the stove and I don't have cold air movement towards the stove.